Leonard and Sons - FAQ

This page lists commonly asked questions with regard to chimney cleaning, chimney repair, fireplace drafting, chimney height, smoke problems, fireplace smoke guards and other questions of interest. Our CSIA-Certified Technicians are trained to provide solutions to these problems.

Q. How often should I have my chimney cleaned?

A. This a tougher question than it sounds. The simple answer is: The National Fire Protection Association Standard 211 says, "Chimneys, fireplaces, and vents shall be inspected at least once a year for soundness, freedom from deposits, and correct clearances. Cleaning, maintenance, and repairs shall be done if necessary." This is the national safety standard and is the correct way to approach the problem. It takes into account the fact that even if you don't use your chimney much, animals may build nests in the flue or there may be other types of deterioration that could make the chimney unsafe to use.

The Chimney Safety Institute of America recommends that open masonry fireplaces should be cleaned at 1/8" of sooty buildup, and sooner if there is any glaze present in the system. Factory-built fireplaces should be cleaned when any appreciable buildup occurs. This is considered to be enough fuel buildup to cause a chimney fire capable of damaging the chimney or spreading to the home.

Q. How is a chimney cleaned, and is it messy?

A. The chimney cleaning can be done from the top and from the bottom (most commonly done from the bottom). A high speed rotary "brush" expands (centrifugal force) while inside the chimney and scrubs the entire flue area, the smoke chamber above the damper, and the firebox. This new system cleans much better than the old-fashioned hand & wire brushes. A vacuum is set up at the bottom to collect all the dust and debris before it enters your home.

Q. When I build a fire in my upstairs fireplace, I get smoke from the basement fireplace.?

A. This has become quite a common problem in modern air tight houses where weather-proofing has sealed up the usual air infiltration routes. The fireplace in use exhausts household air until a negative pressure situation exists. If the house is fairly tight, the simplest route for makeup air to enter the structure is often the unused fireplace chimney. As air is drawn down this unused flue, it picks up smoke that is exiting nearby from the fireplace in use and delivers the smoke to the living area. The best solution is to provide makeup air to the house so the negative pressure problem no longer exists, thus eliminating not only the smoke problem, but also the potential for carbon monoxide to be drawn back down the furnace chimney. A secondary solution is to install a top mount damper on the fireplace that is used the least.

Q. What should and should not be burned in a chimney?

A. To reduce creosote build-up in your chimney, always split well seasoned hardwood such as oak, maple, ash, etc. It is best to split, stack and then allow your wood to dry for at least one year before burning. When burning your wood, moisture should never bubble out of the end grain. This would indicate poorly seasoned wood.

Never burn any type of painted, stained or treated wood that will give off toxic fumes. Avoid plywood, chipboard, particle board, etc. due to the glue that will again give off dangerous fumes. A minimal amount of paper, placed under the grate is OK to start a fire, but avoid glossy paper or paper with color print. Large amounts of paper like gift wrapping should not be burned because it creates a large flame that can reach creosote deposits and start a chimney fire. The top of the flame should always be visible.

Q. Why do I need a chimney cap?

A. Chimney caps are vital for several reasons including:

* To stop rain - the chimney cap prevents rain from entering the chimney, causing damper and firebox rust leading to expensive repairs
* To stop birds & animals - the chimney cap will not allow birds, squirrels or other animals to enter the chimney.
* To discourage backdraft - where certain wind conditions exist, the chimney cap will discourage downdrafts.
* To arrest sparks - the wire mesh reduces the amount of sparks and large ash that is normally blown into the air and onto rooftops.

Q. How do I know what type of chimney cap to get?

A. Insist on a Stainless Steel cap. Painted Black or galvanized caps can be ripped off by animals and will rust over time leaving ugly stains on the chimney. Stainless steel caps usually come with a lifetime warranty. Your chimney professional will be able to size and install a chimney cap for you.

Q: I've been noticing that there is a strong odor of soot and ashes coming from my fireplace on hot, humid days. Sometimes the odor is also strong after it rains. What's causing this, and how can I get rid of it?

A. The first thing to do is have your chimney and fireplace cleaned if you haven't had this done in a while. If you have recently had a cleaning, there could be some underlying problems causing the smell. These include negative air issues: making sure your damper is closed, lack of a raincap at the top of your chimney, moisture problems within the chimney, your smoke chamber may have corbelled brick (which allows creosote to build up), or your chimney could be too short which doesn't allow enough draft to draw smoke and odors up and out.

Q: With the rising cost of heating, is there anything I can do to minimize heat loss in the area of my fireplace?

A. Most fireplaces/chimneys were originally built with a cast iron damper. Unfortunately these types of dampers warp and rust out over time, preventing your fireplace from becoming properly sealed. Installing a top-sealing damper can dramatically cut your energy costs by preventing cold air from ever entering your chimney because it is sealed off from the top.